Hi everyone today, I'm sharing with you how I made this beautiful pine needle basket lately
I've been obsessed with pine needle basketry and I thought I would share my process with you
The first thing you will need is of course pine needles
I've been using ponderosa pine needles
But you can make baskets from many different pine needles as long as they are about 5 inch or 12 centimetres long or longer
the longer they are the easier it is to work with them
You can gather the brown needles whenever you like really, although the longer they have been on the floor the more likely they will have some imperfections
Only pick up the best clusters from the top layer on the ground and avoid picking any they have been buried by others
Avoid pine needles that have spotting or signs of mildew as this will show up on your basket
Arrange the clusters so that they are all faced in the same direction and please make sure you only take what you need
So that the pine needles can continue serving the forest as mulch
After stormy or windy weather you might be lucky to find full fallen branches with the needle still attached
This is a much quicker way to collect the needles, although they might still need to be left out in the Sun to dry
Only work with fully dried needles as green needles will shrink leaving you with a soggy basket, which would be a shame
The next step is to soften the pine needles and for this you will need some water
Boil enough water to cover the needles and then pour it on top of them and
leave the needles to soak for about 30 minutes
If you are not using your needles straight away place them in the freezer for a few days to get rid of any insects
And then you can store them in a box in a dark place
This way they will keep for several months
Once the pine needles have been soaked and drained you should have a very elastic pine needle that does not break while bending
To keep their elasticity you will need to wrap them in a damp towel while you work with them
To complete this project if we also need some kind of resistant thread
I have been using some waxed polyester thread that I use from making macrame jewelry and nylon upholstery thread
Other people like to use artificial sinew walks linen or even raffia, but really any kind of strong thread will do
For this project I decided to use three tones of wax polyester thread
You will also need a pair of scissors a pair of pliers
Needles and
a gauge to allow you to make the same size coil and help you to hold the needles
I personally use a piece of paper straw, but you could also use a small piece of metal tubing for it
Start by cutting a piece of your chosen thread
I like to measure my pieces by just pulling twice the length of my arm that gives me about two meters of thread
The cap the peñitas that you will work with by pulling the ends with your nails
You can also cut the ends away if you prefer but by doing that you will have separate needles instead of clusters
Which can be a little bit harder to work with
Take your gage and place enough needles inside always in one direction
The needles should fit snugly but you should still be able to move the gage up and down
Move the gauge about eight centimetres from the end of your pine needles and make a knot with your thread near the gage
Start wrapping the thread towards the pine needle caps
Once you have wrapped about 6 centimeters hold the wrap in place and bend it in half
Now you can thread the needle and start stitching by passing the needle from one side of the bent coil to the other
You can use your pliers here if it's difficult for you to pull the needle through the coil
Continue doing this on the length of the coil until you have the two sides securely linked
And now you can cut the excess by needles make sure this is from the cluster side and not from the side of the pointy needles
Continue working on the coil by wrapping the thread
About ten times and then taking the needle and inserting it into the coil you just worked on
Whenever your gauge starts wiggling around you will have to fit by needles to it so that if it's snugly again to do this
Always add them in the center to avoid them sticking out later on
The bigger the coil gets the more often you will need to add needles to it
Continue this way by wrapping and bending the coil and stitching until you have another ten centimeters of wrapped coil
When you run out of thread, remove the needle from it and re-string it on the new piece of thread
Then insert the needle on the opposite side of where the thread tail is and pull it through
Leaving about ten centimeters of tail on the new thread
tie the two threads by making two double knots
As I'm using waxed thread
I like to cut the tails off and then burn the ends with a lighter the wax melted by the heat
it secures the ends of the coil, but if you're using something else than wax thread, you can leave the tails on and
Hide them between the coils
Now we will plain stitch the first round of the coil by just inserting the needle on the back of the work
Through the wrapped coil. We just worked on
Secure the stitch tightly and repeat all around the first coil by leaving about three millimeters between the stitches
Once you reach the starting point of the stitches
You can either continue with a single stitch by inserting your needle to the right of the stitch below or you can try the split
Stitch like I do here
To do this you just need to insert your needle about halfway through the stitch on the coil below
I like to flip the work to make sure that I insert it on the thread on both sides. I
I personally find that the split stitch makes the work look a lot neater
But I must admit it takes a lot more time than a single stitch
the bigger the coil gets the wider the stitches will be so when they're about
One and a half centimeters apart. You will need to add stitches to keep the basket strong
To do this just add a plain stitch between the two split stitch
Continue adding stitches until you go back to the first double stitch that you added
And then continue as usual by working with a split stitch
If you're making a small basket you probably won't even need to add stitches but you'll definitely will if you're making a bigger basket
Continue working on the coils until you reach the desired dimension for your bottom coil mine was nine centimeters wide
Before starting the walls, I burned all the tails from the added thread you could do this at the end
But it might be a little bit hard to reach the bottom once the basket is finished
To shape the walls you just need to place the new coil on top of the last bottom coil this way creates a vertical coil
Stitch your first stitch as usual and then stitch it again by going through the same hole one more time
This will create a V stitch which I find very nice on basket walls
If you need to take a break from your basket weaving you can wrap your basket and new needles in a damp towel
Then place them in a plastic bag close the plastic bag and leave it in the fridge
You can keep the needles workable for about 7 to 10 days this way
You just need to make sure that the towel is damp every few days
Once you're ready continue working on your walls with the v stitch
If you place your coils directly on top of each other vertically
You will get straight walls. If you place them slightly on the outside or inside. You can create widening or narrowing baskets
For this basket, I wanted to have a flat lid and for this you need to create a little shelf where the lid can rest
To do, this at the top of the walls
I placed one coil to the outer edge of the code below by making it horizontal
I stitched it and then I added a vertical coil to this
I know this sounds very complicated, but you'll probably get gist just by looking at the images
When you reach the required height of your basket for me was about eight centimeters
You can remove the gage and let your needles free
From this you can keep stitching around the basket as usual until you will have enclosed all of your needles if the coil is too
thick you can remove or cut some of the needles the
Goal here is to have a top as flat as possible
And now you can secure your thread by passing it a few times under the last stitch and then cut it
The last thing I like to do is to cut off any pine needles that are sticking out I do this with a scissor
but you could also rub a cloth gently on your basket to remove them and
Here comes the tricky part
To create the flat lid. I basically repeated the steps for the bottom of the basket
But the only difference that at the beginning I also created a little handle to do this
wrap about 6 centimeters at the start of the coil and
Then bend the coil and stitch only at the base of the coil and not through the length
Keep wrapping the thread around the coil and bend it to create a 90-degree angle from the handle
This might takes a few times to get the hang of it
It is a little bit tricky, but I'm sure that if you keep practicing you'll get there
Keep working on the coil by wrapping the thread
stitching it to the previous coil and work around the handle as if it was the center of the
bottom coil and once again when you have the desired
Dimensions of your wrapped coil you can continue with one round of simple stitch and then continue with rounds of split stitches
And here it comes the fun part try the lid on to the basket and see if it fits
You don't want the lid to fit too snugly yet on the basket. You want to leave a gap of about
1/2 of a centimeter from the lid to the basket
Once you're there remove your gauge and finish off your lid like you did for the body of the basket
And then finish the lid by back stitching the rim of the lid to do this
You just need to go back in each stitch backwards. This creates a nice edge and add strength to the lid
If you find this very difficult there are many other ways to add handles
You can have a pinecone handle you can add braided handles at the end or even just glue one when the lid is finished
And here's how the finished basket looks
Here's another basket I made with a normal lid where I didn't add the step on the body of the basket
But instead I made a flat lid and then added a few vertical coils to the outer edge to create a fitting lid
You can see this basket is a little bit lighter in color
That's because the needles have dried since I soaked them and they returned to the natural color
Eventually the new one will also become light
There are several ways to help preserve the baskets by adding a layer of shellac or wax
But I'm yet to try any of those methods
I would highly suggest if you're wanting to give basket-weaving a try to check out the other resources are left in the description box
I've learned everything online and I'm still a beginner
There's a lot of really inspiring artists that are sharing content online where you can get a lot of more information.
I hope you enjoyed the video, and I will see you soon. Bye
Whilst the classic guernsey pattern remained plain, the stitch patterns used became more complex the further north the garment spread, with the most complex evolving in the Scottish fishing villages.
From the en.wikipedia.org
The fabric produced using a knitting machine is of a more even texture than hand-knitted fabric, which is particularly noticeable on large areas of plain stockinette stitch, and can be an advantage.
From the en.wikipedia.org
Shweeb may be fast and energy-efficient, but I don't see how to avoid collisions, or long queues behind someone with a stitch, or just plain unfit.
From the newscientist.com
In Quilt World we discreetly stitch a sleeve, or several short ones, of strong plain fabric along the whole upper edge of a hanging, a few inches from the top.